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This issue of Full Belly Files was originally emailed to subscribers on June 10, 2022. To receive Matt Kettmann’s email newsletter every Friday, subscribe to independent.com/newsletters.


One recent Saturday morning, I returned from walking my dog ​​to find the neighbors holding a yard sale in their driveway. Well, it was actually Bob’s driveway, but Bob was moved to an institution that could take better care of his aging mind, so his family would sell his old furniture, fishing rods, and sundries while preparing a home for his granddaughter.

The wine cabinets, a full-sized bar set, and miscellaneous utensils like a fish mouth corkscrew were pretty interesting, but I wasn’t in the mood to move the furniture or add anything to my cluttered kitchen drawers. Then I found boxes of dusty old books on the ground, many about food and drink, their ancient culinary wisdom ripe for the taking.

I recently read a The newspaper “New York Times a story about a renaissance among young book collectors, and while I don’t quite fit the definition of a young man, I thought collecting a few old volumes would be nice for my already crowded bookshelf. While browsing The Official Bartender’s Handbook Old Mr. Boston’s De Luxe (1964 edition), Avocado Bravo (published in 1976 by the California Avocado Advisory Council) and bottle fatigue (collection of alcohol illustrations by Virgil Franklin Partch from 1950), I also realized that some of them might one day make a great gift for the right friend or family member.

Here take a look inside Avocado Bravo. | Credit: Matt Kettmann

When I was ready to pay, I mentioned that I was a neighbor who regularly gives out bottles of wine, and they gave me my treasury for free. It wasn’t until I got home that I discovered the hilarity to be found in these pages, a mixture of mid-century misogyny, perhaps disgusting recipes, and a fiery confidence that has become less prevalent in our eggshell walk. introspective era.

AT Dishes that men like, a 1952 cookbook published by Worcestershire sauce makers Lea & Perrins, an unnamed though apparently female author, begins: “If you have a husband who loves to cook, spoil him. Encourage him! You’re really lucky, even if you find yourself just a porter maid while his genius shines. But men are wise, not one in a thousand actually wants to take this job. They usually have a few specialties that they cook from time to time and leave the rest of the cooking to us.” Other highlights on the following pages include a clam juice cocktail, stuffed eggs with sardines, supreme calf’s liver, and four types of rarities.

AT My fair lady cooks, sponsored by American Airlines’ 1964 Fine Ladies Cookbook, Emma Dempster states that women don’t cook as well as men because they “stick too slavishly to Mom’s old recipe” where men are “more daring.” and unchained. Bottle in hand, they’ll happily add some more of whatever they’re drinking at the time, and then maybe get a little reckless and add another spoonful of oil and a pinch or two of this exotic-sounding herb, thus creating something. completely different from what they started doing.”

Drawings by Virgil Franklin Brooch from Bottle Fatigue. | Credit: Matt Kettmann

But there is hope ladies. “Of course you don’t have to plaster,” writes Dempster, “and you can carve wine for the kids, but you can at least use your imagination.” Listening to the advice of the actors My fair lady — which included her husband Hugh Dempster, who played Colonel Pickering — the extremely unique book includes Florentine Wine by Julie Andrews, Trip and Onion by Charles Victor, and Date Cake by Audrey Hepburn.

The article had a lot of more practical advice. French Country Cuisine Elizabeth David (written while food rationing was still in effect in 1951) and Fernanda Garvin. French wines since 1960 (wrapped in a Beverly Wilshire hotel jacket). But the most impressive set I picked up was the 1946 edition of Charles H. Baker, Jr.’s book. The gentleman’s companion, including “Being an Exotic Cookbook” from Volume I and “Being an Exotic Drinking Book” from Volume II. A mixture of travel journal and narrative cookbook, recipes include West African guinea fowl butter sauce, Bahamas shell curry, and Mississippi Cajun strangled turtle, as well as drinks such as Peking Tiger Milk, East India House Cocktail, and Mexican firing squad. .

I’m already in talks with some people to fix some of these dishes, to see if men really like things like veal in jelly sauce and tuna chip casserole, for example. At the same time, they are simply fun and funny to read, bringing out the now foreign tone of past generations, offering epicurean ideas that I have yet to see on modern menus. When in doubt, chefs, there is always a light pie with beef, cheese and king chicken.

food in the city

Here are some of my edible highlights from recent weeks in the city.

Credit: Matt Kettmann
  • Aguachile and shrimp stuffed peppers and massive tamarindo flavored michelada in a brand new restaurant. Mariscos Santa Barbara in the Old City of Goleta. Great place to watch the daytime traffic.
Credit: Matt Kettmann
  • The chicken is super crispy and quite spicy, even at medium levels, from Hot Chicken Matty on the public SB market. Blast your mouth even more by dipping it in homemade hot sauce.
Credit: Matt Kettmann
  • Chef Craig Riker is now at the helm Finch and forka serving of fancy stuffed pork belly eggs (he made one with scallops for my wife), sweet potato soup, hamachi crudo and tuna poke, all before the main course.
Credit: Matt Kettmann
  • I took my son to Herself Kitchen graduation in sixth grade. It’s been a while, but those chicken wings are still incredibly addictive, and the crispy duck salad reminded me of my favorite Chinese chicken salad from my childhood.
  • I finally got to Forest roadside house in western Goleta after a day of golf. The onion rings were firm and the salad tasted freshly grown. The fried chicken sando and back ribs could have been a little more flavorful, but I’m looking forward to enjoying the vast space a little more this summer.

From our table

Out & Proud Mocha by Java Station | Credit: Rebecca DeAnda

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